What length of climbing rope should you buy?
It's the question that stalls the order, and it has a simple answer: your rope has to be at least twice the height of the longest route you want to come back down from, plus margin. The rest is case by case.
In the gym: 30 or 40 m. Indoor walls are short, and 30 m covers most of them. Going 40 m isn't overkill: it leaves margin on the tallest walls and, above all, it lets you cut the rope back from the ends — which wear first — without retiring it.
At the crag: 60 m, sometimes 70. 60 m is still the reference length at most bolted crags. Some routes call for 70 m, and the guidebook always says so. When in doubt, a 70 m rope only costs you weight and space in the pack.
Between the two: 50 m. A sensible choice for a first rope if you climb mostly at short crags, worth checking route by route.
And the 100 or 200 m spools, the 600 m bulk length? Those formats aren't aimed at the individual climber. They're what a gym, a club or a community program buys to outfit its rope fleet: you cut the lengths you need, replace them as they wear, and manage a single product instead of a dozen.
Two habits, whatever length you land on. A stopper knot in the end, every time: that's what catches you the day the rope is too short for the lower. And a real-length check season after season: Cousin points out that a rope swells with use and can shrink by up to 5%. A 60 m rope you bought three years ago isn't necessarily 60 m anymore.
That leaves the diameter. At 10.2 mm, the Tepee plays robustness and hand feel rather than weight: it's a diameter for a rope that gets used often, on plastic and on limestone, and that takes the abrasion of top-rope laps and repeated clipping. But your belay device has the last word: its diameter range, stated by the device manufacturer, decides what you can run through it. Check it before you order.
Our ropes and our belay devices are gathered in the belay gear and ropes collection.
